Fig Leaf Patterns® 1015: Stays 1769-1790s
HISTORICAL NOTES
These blue-green linen stays are constructed in ten sections, (at one time) fully boned, and seamed edge to edge with thick, coarse thread. The front four panels dip slightly across the bust and come to a rounded V at the bottom. To enlarge the stays, unboned and undyed narrow linen panels are inserted between the second and third boned panels at each side. The remaining panels are shaped to dip under the arms and go up over the shoulder blades, and have tabs to splay over the hips. The bottom edges are bound in leather. The center back panels have nine eyelets on each side, offset for spiral lacing.
FIT
This set of stays would have been worn over a shift. It is meant to fit comfortable over the body to create a firm conical shape. There are additional notes on how to adapt the pattern for the larger busted woman.
FABRIC:
The original three fabrics were linens in different weave densities. The exterior blue linen is a plain weave as are the two undyed insets. The undyed interlining layers are a much looser plain weave.
BONING:
The original boning is a narrow width baleen, usually 1/4” wide. The German synthetic boning is an excellent subsitution.
CHOOSING SIZE:
When deciding which size is correct for you to use, measure your bust and your waist, preferably with your underpinnings on. Instructions include various ways to alter the pattern to fit your individual measurements.