Fig Leaf Patterns® 245: Morning Gown, c 1800-1820
The Morning Dress opens on the left side and has an asymmetrical bodice. The
right side covers almost three quarters of the front of the bodice and has a single
dart for each bust point. The left side only partially covers this side of the body
and contains no darts. The sleeves are long and narrow and end in three rows of
cording inside the 2 3/8” sleeve cuff. The right and left front skirts are also asymmetrical;
but the side gores are equal in size. There is one single center back panel.
The shape and length of the skirt is fairly typical of the early 19th century. The
Ruffle is made from a sheer light weight fabric which starts at the neck, goes down
center front and around the hem.
FIT:
The very high period waist is higher than what a woman in the 21st century would
wear and cannot be easily achieved without some form of
corsetry. This dress would have been worn over a chemise,
corset, and with at least one petticoat.
FABRICS:
Dress: The original fabric is a white, lightweight dimity or
corded cotton with a soft drape. The pattern works well in various
weights of cotton. The usual color is white.
Ruffle: sheer white cotton.
CHOOSING SIZE:
When deciding which size is correct for you to use, measure
your rib cage under your bust, preferably with your corset and
underpinnings on. This is the single most important measurement.
Since the cross-over front is asymmetrical and tied with
a sash, it can accommodate a variety of bosoms.
The original dress is in the collection of Locust Grove Museum in Kentucky.