Fig Leaf Patterns 232: Long Sleeve Dress with Corded Tucks, c. 1815-1822
Although from the front, this dress is seemingly plain, the set of three corded pin tucks at the back shoulder seam and at the back princess seam provide the most striking detail to this dress. The front bodice is cut on the bias which appears to be a new development in design around 1810. The fashion fabric is all one piece, but the lining which is also cut on the bias has two seams in different places. The sleeves are cut with the front side on the selvedge. At the front side hem, a triangle piece has been added to it to match the flair on the other side of the cuff because it is cut on the selvedge. The sleeve itself is long, reaching knuckle length. The sleevehead is lightly gathered at the top of the arm.
FIT:
This dress would have been worn with a shift, stays, and with at least one petticoat. Its back is fitted to the body and one can add drawstrings at the neck for a closer fit. The front is lightly gathered at the bust and cut on the bias.
FABRIC:
The original exterior fabric is light, seafoam blue silk and the linings are linen and cotton. Dresses made in solids or prints in silk, linen, cotton are found in various collections and would be appropriate for this style.
CHOOSING SIZE:
When deciding which size is correct for you to use, measure your rib cage under your bust, preferably with your stays and underpinnings on.