Fig Leaf Patterns® 228 Transitional Era Stays, 1790s-1810
FIG LEAF PATTERNS®
228 Transitional Stays, c. 1790s-1810
from the Collection of the DAR Museum
HISTORICAL NOTES
This set of stays is an important link between the 18th Century style of fully boned stays and the early 19th C corset with cording and gussets. These stays have the back styling of the typical 18th c with a long center back that reaches from the shoulder blade to below the waist. It curves to fit at the waist but with no tabs and extends beyond the waist at center front. At the top, from the high point at the shoulder blades, it gently dips under the armscye and then goes straight under the bust with front lacing closure. The bust is not covered by any fabric at all! The bosom is pushed up and supported by a boned center front and bones along the seams of the stay.
FIT:
The very high period waist is higher than what a woman in the 21st century would wear and cannot be easily achieved without some form of corsetry. This set of stays would have been worn over a shift and fits high underneath the bust pushing it up higher to fit above the period waistline. It is a comfortable to wear and move in. There are additional notes on how to adapt the pattern for the larger busted woman.
FABRIC:
The original fabrics were two different colors of medium weight linen. There is no additional lining or interlining.
BONING:
The original boning is a flat reed which allows the stays to be supple and comfortable. The stiffer the bones the more constricting the feel.
CHOOSING SIZE:
When deciding which size is correct for you to use, measure your rib cage under your bust and your waist, preferably with your underpinnings on. Instructions include various ways to alter the pattern to fit your individual measurements.